Burst Geyser

FAQ relating to Burst Geyser:

Q - I have luke warm water or no hot water.

A - Your Geyser could be burst and leaking water. The thermostat will therefore not switch off.

Q - There is water flowing or dripping out of an overflow pipe outside.

A - If it is coming out of a 50mm pipe, then it is likely your geyser has burst.Turn your water off urgently and get the geyser replaced.

Geysers are very dangerous appliances if not installed properly. Get your geyser inspected and consider replacing your safety valve every so often. A faulty safety valve or corroded safety valve can cause your geyser to explode if it fails to open.

Please see article below written by the South African Burea of Standards.

Contact us for a free Geyser inspection:

CONTACT US:

Cape Town, South Africa

Ph 021-44-88-163

Fax 086-559-7369, Accounts 021- 44-77-524

After Hours 082-785-0393

Email: leakpatrol@mweb.co.za

 

Plumbing COC

FAQ relating to Plumbing COC:

CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE OF WATER INSTALLATION ON TRANSFER OF OWNERSHIP IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE WATER BY-LAW

Transfer of ownership 

14.(1)  The seller must, before transfer of a property, submit a certificate from an accredited plumber certifying that

(a)   the water installation conforms to the national Building Regulations and  this By-law;

(b)   there are no defects;

(c)   the water meter registers; and

(d)   there is no discharge of stormwater into the sewer system.

Plumber’s Checklist

  • The Hot Water Cylinder installation complies with SANS 10252 and SANS 10254.
  • The water meter registers when a tap is open and stops completely when no water is drawn. If there is then movement on the meter, this points to a defect somewhere on the property.
  • None of the terminal water fittings leak and they are correctly fixed in position.
  • No stormwater is discharged into the sewerage system.
  • There is no cross connection between the potable supply and any grey water or groundwater system which may be installed.
  • The water pipes in the plumbing installation are properly saddled.

 

SCHEDULE 4

CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE OF WATER INSTALLATION ON TRANSFER OF OWNERSHIP IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE WATER BY-LAW

PROPERTY ADDRESS …………………………………

…………………………………………………………………………………………………… 

ERF NUMBER ……………………………………………

NAME OF SELLER ………………………………………

CONTACT DETAILS OF SELLER

………………….………………………………………………………………

NAME OF BUYER ……………………………………….

I, …………………………………………….…, a suitably accredited plumber, certify that I inspected the plumbing installation at the above address, and confirm that:

  • The water meter is registering,
  • There are no defects which can cause water to run to waste, and
  • There is no ingress of rainwater into the sewerage system.

SIGNATURE: ………………………….. DATE: …………..

 

 PRINT NAME & CONTACT DETAILS: ……….…………

………………………………………………………………

REGISTRATION NUMBER: ……………………………….

 

CITY OFCAPE TOWN QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS REGARDING THE COC BY-LAW.

  1. Clarity in terms of Regulation. Since the City’s water by-laws only refer to SANS 10252 and SANS 10254, which governs the installation of hot water cylinders and general plumbing installations, on 1 September 2006, the City’s legal department is of the opinion that we can only enforce these provisions from that date onwards. This means that any hot water cylinder installed after this date, must be provided with a drip tray, as per SANS 10252 and 10254. However, hot water installations installed prior to this date, where water is being wasted/can be wasted – e.g. an expansion drip pipe from the PRV discharging directly into a stack, where any flow from it would not be noticed, or where a Temperature and Pressure safety valve is absent, or it’s overflow is not in 20 mm copper pipe, and is not taken to a point where it can safely discharge, which would constitute a risk to occupants (either the cylinder exploding or people being scalded by hot water), must be altered to conform with our current by-law, as per clause 3(1).

A lack of a drip tray, in our opinion, in installations prior to 1 September 2006, cannot cause water wastage or readily present risk of personal injury. It is therefore not required in installations constructed prior to 1 September 2006, for the purposes of the COC described in the by-law.

2.   Clarity in terms of Geyser overflows (installed within roof space    versus sectional title and old high rise buildings).

2.1) Free standing houses – 3 overflows required

a) Drip tray – with a minimal of a 40mm diameter

b) Expansion relief drip – 15mm polycop

c) T&P safety valve – 20mm copper

To discharge to outside, below the eaves

2.1)  Sectional title units in older high rise buildings.

Not Allowed:  

Termination of expansion drip and T&P overflows directly into stacks. An air gap must be provided.

Allowed:

The expansion relief drip and T&P safety valve overflows to discharge over a tundish of suitable capacity, with an air gap of 50mm minimal between the ends of the overflow pipes and the upper rim of the tundish. This tundish must discharge via a water seal trap into a stack pipe.

It must also be located where excessive overflow discharges can be readily detected i.e. inside a cupboard or behind a viewing panel.

An alternative would be to discharge the overflows into a shower cubicle, approximately 50mm above the floor level, and facing away from the shower entrance. Under no circumstances must the overflows be discharged at ceiling height, which could cause scalding to a person entering the shower.

3.  Clarity in terms of Ingress of Storm water to sewer.

3.1) In cases of sectional title units with ingress of storm water into sewer, the COC may be signed off and the Body Corporate or Home Owners Association must be notified of the required corrective measures.

3.2) Swimming pool backwash to discharge into the sewer.

3.3) Overflow of swimming pool to discharge into the storm water.

3.4) If the lawn or paved area cannot cope with the volume of rain water,      then it should be diverted to the road.

3.5) Houses that are restricted in terms of gaining access to the road reserve, may request permission from their neighbour to allow a passage for the storm water to pass through the property.

3.6) If all fails, the City will allow you to discharge the storm water into the sewer at a levy.

4.   What action should be taken if a geyser’s overflow cannot comply with the requirements?

4.1) Rectify the situation e.g. re-plumb.

4.2) Look at alternatives.

4.3) Involve District Water Inspector.

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High Electricity bill

FAQ relating to High Electricity bill:

Q – I have a high electricity bill.

A – Your temperature on the geyser thermostat is set too high, your geyser has burst and the element is continually running, no lagging or insulation on the hot pipes feeding the bathrooms, faulty thermostat.

High water bill

FAQ relating to High water bill:

Q – I have a high water bill.

A – Check water meter. Make sure it is standing still whilst nothing in the house is being used, you could have a burst pipe or pinholes, toilet ball valve is overflowing into toilet pan, toilet flushing mechanism is not sealing, faulty PRV or T & P.

 

Water hammering

FAQ relating to Water hammering:

Q – When I open my taps they vibrate and the pipes make a noise.

A – You may have a loose tap jumper, remove and peg or unsecured pipework in      walls or roof space, faulty mixer spindle, unbalanced system, incorrect pipe size,          excessive water pressure.

Low water pressure

FAQ relating to Low water pressure:

Q – I have low water pressure.

A – Check PRV filter, check that all stopcocks are open. Check with municipality that they are not working on the water lines, check tap filters, look for burst pipes.

Manhole

FAQ relating to Manhole:

Q – I have a smell coming from my manhole cover.

A – Lift manhole and check for blockage. If there is no blockage then clean manhole rim, use grease to seal, check inside periodically for roots, dirt and sand.

Plumbing Gully

FAQ relating to Plumbing Gully:

CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE OF WATER INSTALLATION ON TRANSFER OF OWNERSHIP IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE WATER BY-LAW

Q – I have a blocked gully.

A – Use gloves and remove leaves or any foreign matter from grating. If grating is clear, use plunger to clear gully trap. If this does not work then you may have a blockage in the main sewer line.

Sewage

FAQ relating to Sewage:

Q – I have sewage seeping through the manhole cover and toilet water level is rising to rim and subsiding slowly, sewage overflowing into bathroom when sanitary ware is being used.

A – You have a sewer blockage and it could be in main sewer. Wear protective mask and gloves, open manhole cover and utilize drain rods to rectify. The main line may have collapsed, you could have root intrusion, sand or mud in the line.  If roots are found, a re-pipe of this section is essential. Once you remove the roots, its like pruning a tree. The roots will now grow back with twice the force and size and crack your sewer line further.

Basin

FAQ relating to Basin

Q – My basin waste has dropped and will not rise up when pushing rod.

A – The adjustment nut has dislodged.

Q – I have low pressure or slow flow through my taps.

A – It could be a faulty tap spindle or blocked filter.

Bath

FAQ relating to Bath:

Q – My bath is filling slowly.

A – The bath spout could be blocked, the pressure valve cartridge is faulty or blocked with sediment, the bath mixer or spindle is faulty.

 

Shower

FAQ relating to Shower:

Q – I have poor shower rose pressure.

A – You need a high pressure geyser or the shower rose could be blocked with  sediment, the pressure valve cartridge is faulty or blocked with sediment, the       shower mixer or spindle is faulty. Clean or replace.

Toilets

FAQ relating to Toilets:

Q – I have a slow filling toilet cistern.

A – It could be a blocked filter on the inlet ball valve, remove and clean.

Q – I have water hammering or winning noise coming from my toilet cistern.

A – It could be a faulty ball. This can cause poor inlet flow, overflowing, water

hammering and winning.

Q – I have a leaking toilet outlet.

A – This is caused by a poor pan outlet seal or corroded outlet seal. Replace.

Q – When flushing, sewage rises to rim then subsides slowly.

A – You have a blockage in the downstream sewer system. Lift manholes to unblock.

Taps

FAQ relating to Taps:

Q – I have slow flow through a tap.

A – It could be dirt clogged in the tap filter, remove and clean or the spindle could       be faulty and must be replaced.


Hot Water Cylinder

FAQ relating to Hot Water Cylinder:

Q – I have luke warm water.

A – Your element or thermostat is on its way out, replace.

Q – My geyser earth leakage switch is tripping.

A – It is likely your element has corroded and is shorting. The element needs
to be replaced.